Part 3 - Some Bikes to Look At

It may get a bit overwhelming ... there are so many bikes to look at.  The local shops only carry so much, so start there.  At your $2,000 price point, you can get a lot of bike.  Remember, you will need some money for other stuff like pedals, shoes, clothes, a good helmet, bottle racks, bike bag, and a computer. So ... you probably want to spend $1,500 to $1,700 on the bike and set aside the rest for gear.

Some bikes worth looking at ... use the online guides and reviews to find others and talk with the dealers like Tom.  Seth might be a good source as well.  Ask them about bikes they like too. You can get lots of reviews and other information by typing the bike name into Google.

Ok ... some bikes I like are listed below.  There are lots of others, but some just are harder to find (particularly in Maine).  Colnago and Pinarello are sweet bikes if you can find them.

Trek
Madone 4.5 - good quality carbon with 105's.  Look for 2011 models to save some money.

Kestrel
Evoke 2.0 - you can get this full carbon bike with Ultegra on BikesDirect ... great bike for the money! Some other Kestrel's with different component groups on the site as well.


Motobecane
Century Team - another BikesDirect buy ... carbon with Dura Ace.  Look at the other Motobecanes on this site too.

Specialized 
Roubaix Elite SL2 - they defined the "plush" upright carbon bike.  A little pricey for SRAM Apex.  Look for 2011 models.

Tarmac Elite - more of racing position.   A little pricey for SRAM Apex.  Look for 2011 models.

Alez Comp - Alumimum with 105's.

Cannondale
CAAD10 - Aluminum frame with 105's or Rival. They make excellent aluminum frames. Their carbon bike is the Synapse carbon 6.  You drop down to SRAM Apex, but get you carbon.

Jamis
Xenith Endura -  entry level carbon.  Components a little lower than I would like.  Try for at least 105's.


Scott
CR 1 - similar to Jamis Xenith Endura. 105's will cost more then the entry Tiagra's.

Part 2 - Bikes - The Parts and Fit

Like cars, there are lots of different brands and different options.  Similarly, some brands are higher end, while others are considered lower end.  My best advice is to do some research and look at online reviews.  Bicycling Magazine  and Road are good places to start.

Frame Material

Frame type and components will drive the costs the most.  Read this to get a good overview of the frame materials available:

http://www.stc-orlando.org/education/highsch/winning_entries/2009_ABourne.pdf

You will likely focus your search on aluminum or carbon fiber.

Component Groups

The main players in the component market are:

• Shimano
• SRAM
• Campagnolo

Here are the Shimano component groups in increasing order of quality (and price):

• Sora (9-speed)
• Tiagra (9-speed)
• 105 (10-speed)
• Ultegra (10-speed)
• Dura-Ace (10-speed)

SRAM component groups in increasing order of quality:

• Rival (10-speed)
• Force (10-speed)
• Red (10-speed)

Campagnolo component groups in increasing order of quality:

• Veloce (10-speed)
• Centaur (10-speed)
• Chorus (11-speed)
• Record (11-speed)
• Super Record (11-speed)

Campagnolo (often referred to as "Campy") are very high end components. Most of the market is split between Shimano & SRAM. In comparing the SRAM components with Shimano, the 3 SRAM component groups (Rival, Force & Red) are comparable with Shimano's top 3 groups (105, Ultegra & Dura-Ace). You can't go wrong with either one.  Try to get the highest group you can afford.  At your price point, you probably won't get Dura Ace or Red, but you might be able to get into Ultegra or Force.

A component group is considered the brakes, shifters, hub, cassette, chain ring, cogs, chain, bottom bracket, cranks, and headset. Some bikes will have a mix of component groups.

Cranks and Cassettes 

Cranks are the part of the bike in which your pedals attach.  Each chain ring has a number of teeth.  There are two types of cranks:

• Doubles (two chain rings) are what you would normally see on most nicer bikes. Typical size is 39/52 or 39/53. It is the lightest and smoothest choice since there are only two gears. More and more bikes have moved to a compact double crank.  This is a crank with two chain rings that has basically the same gear range as a triple but because there are fewer chain rings weight is saved and shifting is smoother. Typical size is 50/34.  A good discussion of standard vs. compact cranks can be found at http://www.stevehoggbikefitting.com/blog/2011/05/compact-cranks-vs-standard-cranks-gearing-implications/

• Triple (three chain rings) are great for steep hills that are very hard to climb with a double and allow you to maintain an ideal cadence even on the steepest inclines. The disadvantage is that it is heavier than the double and clunkier to shift.  I think you should look at compact doubles.

Cassettes are the cluster of gears that are located on the rear wheel of the bike.  Cassettes come with anywhere from 8-11 cogs. Typical size is 11/27 (11 teeth is the hardest to pedal and 27 is the easiest).  There are other combinations.

Bike Fit and Size

Bicycle fit involves compromises. Compromises between comfort and performance, quick acceleration and handling stability, top speed and "taking in the scenery".  Your body's position on the bike affects how you ride. It affects how much power you can efficiently deliver to the pedals. It affects how comfortable you are on the bike. A position that is more comfortable may not allow you to put as much energy into moving the bike forward as a less comfortable position might.

Many manufacturers are offering a traditional racing position (more hunched over) and a more upright position.  I prefer the later as it makes for a comfortable position on a long ride.  A tri bike would have the ultimate racing position.  Again, test ride some to get a feel for them.

In terms of frame size, the following chart is just enough to get you going. Some manufacturers fit different ) for example my Serotta is a 55cm and my Trek is a 56cm).  Once you have the right basic size, the best thing you can do is to test ride different bike frames to see what feels best.

SIZE GUIDELINES FOR ROAD BIKE FRAMES

YOUR INSEAM(inches)	FRAME SIZE(in inches, approx.)	FRAME SIZE(in cm.)	TOP TUBE  (cm)(Approximate)	YOUR HEIGHT(feet & inches)
28.5	19.3	49	51	5′ 3″
29	19.7	50	51	5′ 4″
29.5	20	51	52	5′ 4.5″
30	20.5	52	53	5′ 5″
30.75	20.9	53	54	5′ 6″
31.25	21.3	54	54.5	5′ 7″
32	21.7	55	55	5′ 8″
32.5	22.1	56	55.5	5′ 8.75″
33	22.5	57	56	5′  9.5″
33.75	22.9	58	56.5	5 ‘ 11″
34.25	23.2	59	57	6′

 
Finally, check out the beauty of the frame.The paint job is perhaps the last thing you should take into consideration, but definitely the first thing you, and everyone else, is going to notice.

Part 1 - Purchase Options

There are three main options to explore:

1. Buy a new (or old new stock) bike from a local dealer
2. Buy a used bike through eBay, Craigslist, Uncle Henry's, or something similar
3. Buy a new bike through the internet

Buy a new (or old new stock) bike from a local dealer
This will cost the most money, but is the typical way to make a purchase.  Besides brand new (current year models), see if the shop has any "old new stock".  These are still new but may be last year's model saving you some money.  What ever option you choose, you want to establish a good relationship with a bike shop.  They will help maintain and fix your bike when needed.  If you choose options 2 or 3, they might be a little less helpful (at least initially).  Go to the local shops to see and test bikes and get a good idea of the size you need.  Not all manufacturers size the same.  Fit/size is the most critical thing ... you can have the fanciest bike in town, but if doesn't fit you, you're hosed. I am not familiar with any shops in Bangor. In the Winthrop/August area there are four primary choices:

1. Mathieus Cycle (Oakland) - probably the best local shop. Pretty good selection and carries several brands including Trek, Specialized, Scott, and Cannondale. Take a look at the models on the manufacturer web sites to start to get an idea of what the options are.
2. LL Bean (Freeport) - the main store has a nice bike shop and carries Felt as well as some other brands.
3. Tom's Bike Boutique - this is the guy that sponsored Seth.  He is primarily a mechanic (and a good one).  He would be a great guy to chat with and use as your primary mechanic.  He doesn't seem to sell a lot of road bikes, but may be able to.  If you go with options 2 or 3 above, he can help assemble and then maintain.
4.  Auclair Cycle (Augusta) - nice guy and knows the family.  That said, he does not carry the best bikes and does not cater to higher end stuff.

Buy a used bike through eBay, Craigslist, Uncle Henry's, or something similar
You can get a lot more bike for your money (better frame, components, etc.) buying a used bike, but it will be a used bike.  That means a few scrapes potentially and most important, you need to really check out the bike to make sure it fits and is in good shape.  I bought my winter bike on eBay, so it can work.  Check out eBay, Craigslist, Uncle Henry's and see what you find. Again, you can get a bike that originally sold for a lot more money this way.

Buy a new bike through the internet
Some manufacturers will not let their bikes be sold over the web, but some do.  If you find a bike you like locally, see if you can find it online cheaper.  The local shop may match the price or come down some.  There are a few online dealers worth looking at.  You get a lot for your money this way, but will need a local shop to help assemble it (not from scratch).  Of particular note is Bikes Direct and Performance. Bikes Direct sells Motobecane and you get a lot for your money.  The brand used to be a big European player.  Performance has their own brand, and again you get a lot for your money.  They need finally assembly and some purists shy away from the brands, but good bang for your buck.