Frame Material
Frame type and components will drive the costs the most. Read this to get a good overview of the frame materials available:
http://www.stc-orlando.org/education/highsch/winning_entries/2009_ABourne.pdf
You will likely focus your search on aluminum or carbon fiber.
Component Groups
The main players in the component market are:
- Shimano
- SRAM
- Campagnolo
- Sora (9-speed)
- Tiagra (9-speed)
- 105 (10-speed)
- Ultegra (10-speed)
- Dura-Ace (10-speed)
- Rival (10-speed)
- Force (10-speed)
- Red (10-speed)
- Veloce (10-speed)
- Centaur (10-speed)
- Chorus (11-speed)
- Record (11-speed)
- Super Record (11-speed)
A component group is considered the brakes, shifters, hub, cassette, chain ring, cogs, chain, bottom bracket, cranks, and headset. Some bikes will have a mix of component groups.
Cranks and Cassettes
Cranks are the part of the bike in which your pedals attach. Each chain ring has a number of teeth. There are two types of cranks:
- Doubles (two chain rings) are what you would normally see on most nicer bikes. Typical size is 39/52 or 39/53. It is the lightest and smoothest choice since there are only two gears. More and more bikes have moved to a compact double crank. This is a crank with two chain rings that has basically the same gear range as a triple but because there are fewer chain rings weight is saved and shifting is smoother. Typical size is 50/34. A good discussion of standard vs. compact cranks can be found at http://www.stevehoggbikefitting.com/blog/2011/05/compact-cranks-vs-standard-cranks-gearing-implications/
- Triple (three chain rings) are great for steep hills that are very hard to climb with a double and allow you to maintain an ideal cadence even on the steepest inclines. The disadvantage is that it is heavier than the double and clunkier to shift. I think you should look at compact doubles.
Bike Fit and Size
Bicycle fit involves compromises. Compromises between comfort and performance, quick acceleration and handling stability, top speed and "taking in the scenery". Your body's position on the bike affects how you ride. It affects how much power you can efficiently deliver to the pedals. It affects how comfortable you are on the bike. A position that is more comfortable may not allow you to put as much energy into moving the bike forward as a less comfortable position might.
Many manufacturers are offering a traditional racing position (more hunched over) and a more upright position. I prefer the later as it makes for a comfortable position on a long ride. A tri bike would have the ultimate racing position. Again, test ride some to get a feel for them.
In terms of frame size, the following chart is just enough to get you going. Some manufacturers fit different ) for example my Serotta is a 55cm and my Trek is a 56cm). Once you have the right basic size, the best thing you can do is to test ride different bike frames to see what feels best.
SIZE GUIDELINES FOR ROAD BIKE FRAMES
YOUR INSEAM(inches) | FRAME SIZE(in inches, approx.) | FRAME SIZE(in cm.) | TOP TUBE (cm)(Approximate) | YOUR HEIGHT(feet & inches) |
28.5 | 19.3 | 49 | 51 | 5′ 3″ |
29 | 19.7 | 50 | 51 | 5′ 4″ |
29.5 | 20 | 51 | 52 | 5′ 4.5″ |
30 | 20.5 | 52 | 53 | 5′ 5″ |
30.75 | 20.9 | 53 | 54 | 5′ 6″ |
31.25 | 21.3 | 54 | 54.5 | 5′ 7″ |
32 | 21.7 | 55 | 55 | 5′ 8″ |
32.5 | 22.1 | 56 | 55.5 | 5′ 8.75″ |
33 | 22.5 | 57 | 56 | 5′ 9.5″ |
33.75 | 22.9 | 58 | 56.5 | 5 ‘ 11″ |
34.25 | 23.2 | 59 | 57 | 6′ |
Finally, check out the beauty of the frame.The paint job is perhaps the last thing you should take into consideration, but definitely the first thing you, and everyone else, is going to notice.
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